The Thrifty Rocketeer

 The Thrifty Rocketeer blog continues... There are almost as many vehicles used to get to a launch field as there are rockets...almost! But it's a safe bet that if you're an experienced rocketeer, you either have a pick-up truck, or perhaps an SUV with a hatch back. Most of us have attended a trunkfest or a swap meet where the vendors have their merchandise laid out in the back deck of their car or SUV, with the hatch back raised.  This keeps the stuff out of the sun, and should it rain or sprinkle, out of the precipitation. However, after some nine years or so of service, the 2012 Kia Soul that I drive failed me...  that is, the hatch lift pneumatic cylinder won't hold the hatch lift up. Now, about a half year ago, when I pressed this little used car into service as my launch vehicle, the hatch worked fine, but I had trouble keeping a large beach umbrella standing next to it in the slight 5-10 mph breeze. After the umbrella fell twice, a neighbor rocketeer lent me a bung...

 The Thrifty Rocketeer blog continues... You'll have to excuse me this week, as I slip into a rant. You know what really annoys me? Glassine coated body tubes. You know the stuff... usually low power rockets that have a slick plastic coating over the tube, so that they can make the tube thinner and still have some rigidity left. It may make for a slick, smooth surface to paint, but it is absolute hell when it comes to gluing fins and things onto the body tube....especially at a 90 degree angle. Now, I know what you're thinking....  "That's not so bad.  You can rough it up with a bit of sand paper and break the surface." Right. Except, remember that the paper tube is so thin, it doesn't have a lot of body left to it, and any scratch or abrasion into the tube weakens it. I find this not only annoying, but short-sighted of Estes to be producing these in traditionally popular kits. I've run into this in the Commanche 3, and most recently the Goblin which I bou...

 The Thrifty Rocketeer blog continues... One of the issues that pops up after a person starts to build more than a rocket or two, is where to build it?  The dining room table or the kitchen counter usually is not appreciated by others in the household, who can't stand seeing cardboard tubes glued together drying while the rocketeer is off doing other things. Also, women seem to have this inborn fear of their table being scarred for life by a razor blade. So today's tip is very handing to solving this. Women have a cutting matt which they used to measure, layout and cut pieces of cloth for various sewing projects, and that works really well. Rocketeers have taken to this mat, and some even claim that the mat is "self healing" in that it will close and reseal any errant slices that may occur over time. Recently a fellow rocketeer has pointed out that the mini version of this mat has come up for sale for just a buck at a Dollar Tree store. (This is a store that generally...

 The Thrifty Rocketeer blog continues.... One of the most common discussions among rocketeers is "Which glue do I use?" The obvious answer is "Whatever the manufacture recommends in their instructions." But sometimes that doesn't quite satisfy the curious or the adventurous rocketeer who wants to build their own, or vary the design somewhat. Now, from personal experience, I can tell you that yellow wood glue has always been my preferred go-to glue for low power rocket builds.  And, I have never had one fail because of the use of that glue. (Oh sure, a glasine coated body tube is a slippery surface and will always create problems, but that's another story.)  Today, I'd like to discuss BSI 15 minute epoxy, which is my go-to for builds from mid-power to high power.  For even higher power, I'll spring for BSI 30 minute epoxy. By the way, BSI stands for Bob Smith Industries... but I really can't tell you more than that cause I haven't researched t...

 The Thrifty Rocketeer Blog continues... So we're chatting with fellow rocketeers on Zoom tonight, (something we've started doing since the Pandemic hit) and one of my fellows asks, "Has anyone tried this new 2-part clear coating for your rockets?" Now, the attempt to seal your rocket with "Clear Coat" has been an ongoing fad for many years, and seems to go in cycles, as various new rocketeers enter the hobby, and want to preserve their paint job, especially as they take more time and effort with their painting. So he goes on to describe how this is a two-part mix, and how you take the cap off the top of the bottle, and then reinsert it in the base, puncturing the seal and adding the hardener to the mix.  Some vigorous shaking, and the spray is ready. He even claims that the spray nozzle is set up to give a nice, even fan from top to bottom when sweeping left to right.   He says this is near automotive grade, and is frequently used for preserving the paint o...

 The Thrifty Rocketeer blog continues... You know, I've often wondered why we're allowed to use metal engine hooks under the NAR safety code. I mean, I know it's not much, but it IS a metal part that is being launched in the rocket configuration.   (And for that matter, sometimes we add washers...or BB's... or lead shot...as well.  Oh well...) So, I was skimming a favorite Facebook page of mine, and I came across a link to a brilliant entry that suggests how to improve the quality of your rocket's engine hook.... and where to find replacements. So, rather than pirate this idea, let me just share it once again and link to the original blog entry.  Enjoy.... Replacement Engine Hooks

  The Thrifty Rocketeer blog continues... I want you to look at this picture and see if you can tell me what's wrong with it. Now first of all, ignore the fact that the bat symbol is upside down.  And you can ignore the tattered remnants of a red leather tassel. The obvious remainder are two tools that every high power rocketeer will want in their arsenal. a straight blade screw driver and a Philips head bit. Now, there's nothing wrong with having these in your jump box, field kit, or whatever you call your tackle box of supplies. It's when you place them (and the heavy bat symbol as well) onto your keyring, you're inviting disaster. The reason is because they're dead weight.  When inserted into your ignition, the key presses up against the lock and tumbler mechanism, and with every bounce on the road, they press against and wear on both the key and the lock. Usually, when the ignition/starter lock on a car fails, it's because the owner has a huge ring of keys, ...